Sunday, September 27, 2009

Where is Burma?




So where is Burma? On the strictest terms, Burma has the great "privilege" of being sandwiched between the two giant regional powers of India and China, to the west and north respectively. Additionally it shares a large border with tourist haven Thailand, and small borders with the comparatively underdeveloped and poor countries of Bangladesh and Laos. Culturally, politically and historically, all of these neighbors have influenced Burma.

Regionally, most scholars and talking heads like to lump Burma in with South Asia which typically includes India, Pakistan, Nepal, Bhutan, Sri Lanka, and Bangladesh. There are valid reasons for this, but overall it is a bad distinction. I believe that culturally, politically, and historically Burma has always been firmly part of Southeast Asia. Burma's claim by South Asia can mostly be blamed on the United Kingdom, which lumped Burma, India, Bangladesh and Pakistan into the British Raj (1858-1947). Since all of its fellow former Asian colonies are now part of South Asia, Burma has had the misfortune of its recent history playing a larger role in its regional identity than centuries of affinity with Southeast Asia.

But what does Burma have to do with India? Or China for that matter? It is true that through British influence, India has had major impacts on Burmese politics, food and even clothing (the commonly worn longyi saw its first appearance in Burma during the British occupation). China has also some claim to influence, particularly recently as it has helped the Burmese military junta stand up to international condemnation.

However, Burma has a lot more in common with neighboring Thailand, Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia than either of these neighbors. Perhaps most importantly, all of these countries share Buddhism as the national religion. Over the centuries, Buddhism has had immeasurable influences on Southeast Asian culture and politics, and continues to play a daily role in most peoples' lives. Of course, Buddhism originated in India, as did the roots of much Southeast Asian arts, myths and writings. Through time though, the divergence from the source has by now become so great that these countries have much more in common with each other than with their cultural parent.

On a more subtle scale, Burmese culture shares many traits with that of other Southeast Asian countries. Thailand has frequently been called "the Land of Smiles" for the Thai people's penchant for expressing (or hiding) happiness, embarrassment, and even anger with brilliant smiles, but the Burmese smile almost as much in far worse conditions.

Historically, the link is just as great. Borders have shifted so many times between Burma, Thailand and Cambodia that each country now argues that the others have stolen their original arts, and even boxing styles. Cambodia's famous Khmer Empire (802-1431), builder of the breathtaking Angkor Wat, extended into much of modern day Burma. Centuries before Britain, France and the Netherlands entered the scenes, Burmese and Thai empires repeatedly attacked each other and traded vassal states. Burma also had cross border hostilities with various Chinese, Indian, and even Mongol states, but overall, Thailand seems to have been Burma's arch rival.

Overall, Burma is a combination of all of its neighbors, as well at its own unique geography, history and peoples. In fact, it is almost a crime to generalize Burma into any region when in truth it is one of the most diversely peopled countries in the world with over a hundred different ethnic groups. Regional influences aside, Burma definitely has its own flavor.

What are Burma's relations with its neighbors today? That is the topic for the next post. Hurrah!

Wednesday, September 23, 2009

A little poem about a favorite little place

Kalaw is…

Purple trees,
wafting Nepalese spices,
and old British schools,
horse-drawn carriages and
Shan shoulder bags;
Rolling hills of tea leaves,
Giggling girls and men in uniform,
Small tables, Buddhism and superstition.
It’s beautiful.
It’s beautiful.

Monday, September 21, 2009

Look again


Is Burma really the shit hole that most media would have us believe? This is probably a question that most people wouldn't bother to ask; they would just assume it to be so. Like all countries, Burma has unfortunately come to be defined by only a few of its darker characteristics. Anyone who reads or watches the news knows about the impoverishment and oppression in Burma, but obviously there is more to the country than that. Just as the people of Burma are victims of a cruel, and sadly stupid military regime, they are also the victims of international oversimplification.

But this blog is about another side of Burma. These words are going to bring attention to the things the media ignores, like the vibrant bursts of the Burmese landscape, the pooled and saturated Buddhist culture, the colorful history of warlords, monks and imperialists (Burmese, British, and others). Most of all, this is going to be about the smiles a traveler finds on the streets of Yangon, Kalaw, and Mandalay, and where they come from.

It is easy to call Burma an unfortunate country right now, but the Burmese should not be pitied. It my short time in Burma, I found them to be some of the most thoughtful, determined and beautiful people I have ever met. This blog is about them.